Chelsea Market, Meatpacking District. Photo: Google Maps

Despite ongoing complaints and concerted efforts to dismantle them, the city’s streeteries are staying put. In this week’s issue of New York, Simon van Zuylen-Wood tracks the epic rise and nonexistent fall of plywood dining — an unlikely artifact of early-pandemic life and a repurposing of public land that is now set to change our cityscape forever.

As van Zuylen-Wood reports, the erection of thousands of dining sheds created new business opportunities (just ask the city’s new go-to “propane guy”) and transformed our sidewalks into ad hoc dining rooms, a menagerie of wildly different ideas brought to life by purposely lax regulations. In some ways, these structures are glorious examples of ingenuity in the face of impossible adversity; in other, equally visible ways, they are kind of gross. They are also, in one form or another, here to stay.

The Pavilion at NeueHouse, Flatiron District

This private club says its “exoKnit pavilion” has a “digitally woven photo-luminescent canopy.” 

Goldbar, Little Italy

Completely windowless yet not officially indoors.

Toloache (now Kuxé) and the Malt House, Greenwich Village

Slows traffic to a crawl, improving your meal.

Branded Saloon, Prospect Heights

Is it more Gerrit Rietveld or Amy Sillman? Discuss.

Tomi Jazz, Midtown East

If it’s not raining, small combos are playing.

The Izakaya NYC, East Village

Stopped by the city mid-construction.

Vicolina, Upper East Side

A mossy fantasia distracts from the concrete.

Fresh & Co, Greenwich Village

Easy to take down if the neighbors gripe.

Jongro BBQ, Koreatown

If it’s well ventilated, won’t diners smell trash?

Scarpetta, Nomad

Those doors open right into the bike lane.

Panna II, East Village

It got blown over at least three times.

Rangoon, Crown Heights

Bright, pleasant, gorgeous at night.

Suprema Provisions, West Village

Fun for a goof once; ridiculous thereafter.

Jolene, Noho

It’s not just private. It’s opaque.

Terremoto Coffee, Chelsea

Water- or sand-filled barriers can top 1,500 pounds and maybe divert a car.

Quality Meats, Midtown

There’s a proper bar in there. 

Il Buco, Noho

Nicely blurs the line between shed and patio.

The Chai Spot, Little Italy

Maybe the only dining shed in which you can lie down (legally).

Photographs by AFP via Getty Images, @CORONASHAXX/Jacob Reidel, John Tymkiw, Alamy Stock Photo, @bicycult/Twitter, Jeremiah Miss, Christian Larsen, Getty Images, Google Maps, Quality Meats

Photo: Timothy A. Clary/AFP via Getty Images (street); John Tymkiw (Goldbar, NeueHouse, il Buco); @coronashaxx/Jacob Reidel (Vicolina, Tomi Jazz, Branded Saloon, Jongro BBQ, The Chai Spot); John Tymkiw (Izakaya NYC, Jolene); Jeremiah Moss (Panna II); @bicycult (Scarpetta); Richard B. Levine/Alamy (Chairs); Google Maps (Terremoto); Alexi Rosenfeld/Getty Images (Bubbles); Christian Larsen (Rangoon); Courtesy of Quality Meats (Bar); Stephanie Goto (Daniel)