With a compelling mix of Catalan food, Alexander Calder tapestries and detailed joinery, Parlar Restaurant + Bar today joins the party on Macleay Street, Potts Point, alongside sibling restaurant Franca Brasserie.
Even owner Andrew Becher is marvelling at the finishes. “There is lots of European oak. You have to see the work on the double bullnose joinery,” says the restaurateur, who has clearly spent months in the company of builders and craftsman.
The 1975 tapestries, based on works by the American artist, are from Becher’s own collection. And his wry touches are on the opening menu, which segues from drinks to food with: “A word from our chef …”
There’s also a nice addition more restaurant menus should copy: film-like credits for drinks maestro Alex Raclet and head chef Jose Saulog.
Anyone who’s checked the restaurant’s pre-opening progress on social media would have noted the precision of Saulog’s food. Some of his creations look like avant-garde eclairs, others straight from a Joan Miro painting.
There’s highwire sweet and savoury with the “tapes” (tapas) dishes, with anchovy, churro and creme fraiche on the same plate, a morcilla sandwich, and more substantial dishes spanning John dory and wagyu flank steak all the way to a Catalan seafood platter for two ($240).
While Saulog pushes boundaries and technique, he tells Good Food he always has one eye on keeping dishes simple.
With the backdrop of a marble-and-oak Steel & Stitch-designed interior, the chef has found room on the dessert menu for crema Catalana, Parlar’s version served with caramelised white chocolate.
Open Fri-Sat lunch, Tue-Sat dinner.
Shop 1, 81 Macleay Street, Potts Point, parlar.com.au