A nomad by definition moves from place to place, but the relocation of Sydney’s Nomad restaurant wasn’t exactly planned.

Nomad’s summer residency at the former Longrain site in Surry Hills kicks off tomorrow, the result of a fire that swept through the restaurant in September.

The restaurant is taking a summer sojourn up the road, so it helps that one of the owners is also an interior architect.

Lamb shoulder, toum, chilli and lemon.
Lamb shoulder, toum, chilli and lemon. Photo: Petrina Tinslay

That’s where Rebecca Yazbek has stepped in, bringing a fresh, white feel to the grand bones of the space.

She’s brought some luggage with her: Nomad’s reconditioned chairs and tables and the restaurant’s signature CJ Hendry artwork.

“Hopefully it feel like a lighter and brighter version of home,” she says.

Chopped eggplant, pomegranate and toasted olive seeds.
Chopped eggplant, pomegranate and toasted olive seeds. Photo: Petrina Tinslay

And the space has long had emotional value for Rebecca and husband and business partner, Al.

“Longrain was where Al and I had our first date so the space still feels special, familiar and a little bit like us,” she says.

The Nomad team and head chef Jacqui Challinor have joined the trek up the hill to their new HQ, with Nomad signatures including the olive oil ice-cream sandwich with halva and pistachio on the opening menu.

Despite the lack of a wood-fire oven, Nomad is still punching out its flatbread (off the plancha grill).

Challinor’s cooking is never boring, with potted mud crab on the menu alongside dishes such as burrata matched with fennel jam, a calamari starter with fried potato and chimichurri and king prawns with saffron butter and curry leaf. There’s also spatchcock with chermoula.

The Nomad Up The Road pop-up will be there for at least three months. But with Christmas, Sydney over-runs and nomads, who knows?

Ortiz anchovies, preserved tomato and focaccia.
Ortiz anchovies, preserved tomato and focaccia. Photo: Petrina Tinslay

Open Mon-Sat Lunch; Mon-Sat dinner.

85 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills, 02 9280 3395, nomadwine.com.au