Few dishes get people more excited than pizza, so this review may be quite controversial.
There is no denying diners flock to Canteen Pizza in Cottesloe for their wood-fired namesake.
The smell alone is enough to lure you in from the footpath outside, though it’s the bubbly and crispy char on them and scattering of quality ingredients that will keep you coming back.
Despite their deliciousness I’ve become a Canteen Pizza regular for their sides and antipasti. The dozen or so dishes that accompany their pizzas are just as good, if not better than the main event.
Starting with one of my favourite dishes in Perth.
It has just a few humble ingredients – heirloom tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, house bread and basil pesto ($17) – but piled high together it’s a joyous dish full of sweetness, creaminess and crunch.
Another dish the childhood versions of ourselves would never imagine spruiking is the Brussel sprouts, nduja, anchovy and prosciutto crumb ($15).
Unlike the boiled version whose smell would send people retreating from a restaurant, these charred and salty morsels are so deceptively tasty that even a friend who nearly refused to try them found herself snacking away on them.
The Shark Bay scallops, parsnip, porcini dust with vino bianco ($18) felt like more of a warming, wintery dish – not that we were complaining – with the three plump scallops perfectly cooked and swimming in the rich flavours of the mushroom sprinkling and sauce.
Last and perhaps least, but only because every other dish was excellent, was the traditional pork and almond polpette, tomato sugo, pecorino and rosemary ($18).
These were tender meatballs with an unexpected almond crunch in a sauce you’d be very happy to mix through your favourite pasta.
While the food was a delight it is worth mentioning there are plenty of fans of this hotspot so it gets very busy and very loud. Service isn’t always seamless but it’s always friendly.
110 Marine Parade, Cottesloe
The verdict: Come for the pizza, but stay for the delicious sides. This is a buzzing and stylish spot with great views of Cottesloe.